Beaufort to Savannah

Beaufort (long u) SC not to be confused with Beaufort (long o) NC, is a quaint waterfront town that is oozing with southern charm.   The waterfront has the SC signature palmetto palms and swings to sit and watch sunsets.  After walking the streets of Beaufort and having a delicious breakfast  at Low Country Produce we left this gorgeous waterfront heading south.

Made our way south to Hilton Head’s Shelter Cove Marina.  Normally we would not be staying at so many marinas but the nighttime temperatures have dropped in the 30s.  

Simon met a new friend Mack.  We are so happy Mack has a new home having recently been rescued from a kill shelter.

Relaxed a bit at Hilton Head and explored the surrounding docks.   Thought it was interesting to see this posted on a fishing boat.    Folklore associates bananas on a boat (especially fishing vessels) as bad luck.  This probably goes back to the banana trade days and the vessels had to make time to deliver their cargo before it spoiled.  The speed did not allow for favorable fishing thus bananas on a boat means bad luck fishing.

Steve made  his last round to check the systems on the boat , as Simon supervised.

Left Hilton Head for Savannah.   The ditch (ICW) is winding and narrow at spots requiring us to stay on our toes to make sure we don’t miss the designated path. 

Arrived at Thunderbolt Marina  and visited downtown Savannah.   We ate at Wilkes Boarding House and the down home cooking was abundant.    Twenty three different dishes on our table were shared  family style, all yummy!   Needed a nap after such a large lunch but decided we better take a long walk instead. 

The prestigious Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) has purchased a majority of the historic buildings.  After renovating the buildings and preserving their historic architecture these building are sold to families or re-purposed as art studios.  The beautiful church buildings downtown  have all been well maintained and preserved.  There are many small parks in downtown Savannah  each having their own statue to commemorate an historic event.

After receiving our morning delivery of local paper and Krispy Kreme doughnuts, we slipped the lines heading to FL.

Charleston SC

Saturday 11/24/12

Spent the last two days in the Charleston, SC area and experienced nice sunny weather with temperatures in the upper 60s- low 70s, delightful.  Met a couple from MA and their dog Rudder who loves to sit on the bow of their boat while in transit.  Simon and Rudder became fast friends.

We docked near the Ashley River Bridge and it is surreal that five years ago while walking nearby docks we started planning our trip here.  Makes us wonder where we will be in the next five years.

Charleston has a beautiful waterfront and the people are always so hospitable.  Don't know where we will be in five years but we would definetly like to return for additional visits to this lovely waterfront city.

Thanksgiving 2012

Thanksgiving Day 11/22/12

Left Morehead City NC heading south,  Tuesday 11/20/12.  Simon met some new friends  along the way.

The sun did finally come out but the temperatures were still very cool (60s day/40s night). 

We had some nice cross breezes and were able to fly that white thing on our vessel.

The ICW is known for more motoring than sailing but it’s the scenery and people along the way that makes the trip memorable. Southport is a charming waterfront community and with temperatures in high 60s there were plenty of people sitting in the dockside benches and swings to watch the sunset.

Met some new friends along the way, Bill and Cathy on New Wave and Hans on New Create.  We combined our galley provisions and had a wonderful Thanksgiving dinner of Chicken Stuffed with Spinach, Feta and Pine Nuts, Maple Bourbon Pork Roast, Butternut Squash Rissoto, Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Leeks, Savory Pumpkin Gratin and finished it with Pumpkin Rum Raisin Crème Brulee.  Yummy and we felt like the stuffed turkey after the meal.

This year we have navigated numerous bridges (figuratively and literally) and are blessed to have the encouragement and support of friends and family. 

We hope everyone had a wonderful Thanksgiving Day.

For each new morning with its light,

For rest and shelter of the night,

For health and food, for love and friends,

For everything Thy goodness sends.

~Ralph Waldo Emerson

National Harbor to Morehead City

Saturday Nov 10 – Monday Nov 19

Left National Harbor early Saturday morning with adventurous anticipation. We had a super send-off  by some great dock mates and excellent line handlers - thanks Dustin and Jim!

Dodged a lot of logs in the upper Potomac thanks to hurricane Sandy the week earlier.

 

Weather became unseasonably warm for the weekend with highs up to 77F on Monday.  Winds were nice but unfortunately on our nose.  Anchored in Mattox creek and Gwynn Island on our way down the Potomac River and Chesapeake Bay with beautiful sunsets to cap off some very memorable days on the water.

 Our port engine had some issues and quit functioning just prior to going into Norfolk.  We docked at Waterside Marina (Norfolk) on Monday and Tuesday evening, taking the opportunity to have our fuel tanks cleaned. We put in a few extra hours cleaning and re-assembling the primary diesel fuel filters – what fun! We were pleasantly surprised to see and chat with our friends from National Harbor, Forrest and Christi on their boat Voila`.  We said so long to Norfolk (pictured below on right) and Portsmouth (on left) to make the bridge opening we had scheduled.  Our mast height is 63’ and the majority of bridges on the ICW are 65’ but due to tide swings, winds and shoaling these clearance heights are subject to change.

There are two routes of  the upper Atlantic Intercoastal Water Way also referred to as Intercoastal Waterway, ICW or The Ditch.  The upper routes are Virgina Cut (more heavily traveled) or Dismal Swamp Canal (less traveled due to depth restrictions).  We chose the DSC route this trip since we had come up the Virginia Cut in June.

  The DSC is the oldest operating canal in the US. It was hand dug starting in 1793 to promote commerce. The DSC is a very straight canal with one major dogleg. It’s about 60-80 ft wide in most places and 6-12 ft deep in the center. The fall foliage was brilliant and the water in the canal was very deep brownish-burgundy color due to the natural tannic acid produced by the continually decaying vegetation on the banks of the canal. We reached the DSC State Park Visitor Center early afternoon and  met some new friends on their boats from Nova Scotia, Michigan and Annapolis.  The Visitor Center allows overnight dockage but due to limited space boats raft (tie up)  to one another. The Captain of the boat we were rafted to had survived Hurricane Sandy on his boat while moored in Long Island Sound.  Navigating the DSC requires transiting through two locks.  The South Creek Lock has an 8 foot drop.

 

Upon exiting the Dismal Swamp Canal you enter the channel to Elizabeth City, NC.  Tied up to the Elizabeth City docks adjacent to a park.  Simon had a great time running in the grass and welcomed a reprieve from the boat.  As we left the City the next morning the weather was turning unseasonable cool and overcast but that didn’t stop sails from being hoisted.

After leaving Elizabeth City we transited the Albermarle Sound, down the Alligator River to the north end of the Pango River.  One of our favorite anchorages in June was at Pango River and we wanted to return to gather additional memories of beautiful sunsets.  The weather was in high 30s at night and with limited heat capabilities we bundled up.

 Departed early Saturday morning 11/17/12 to Morehead City, NC via Pamlico River, Bay River and Adams Creek in 15-20 kt N winds.  We took refuge at Morehead City for a couple of days due to winds gusting and off shore Gale warnings.  Even the birds weren’t flying due to the high winds.

     

                                                                             

National Harbor DC

We are at National Harbor Marina and have enjoyed our stay but with the weatherman forecasting dusting of snow tonight, it is time to sail south.   Boat preparations should be completed and hopefully we will slip the lines (dock lines) on Saturday, 11/10/12.